Have a vehicle build or question, post here!
User avatar
By Coltron
#12566
Been working on our 89' K5. Took 20" out of the front grill. As I tore into this thing I've been finding more and more projects....as usual with most old vehicles. Right away when taking the fenders off I noticed the radiator and heater core where leaking. I was able to repair the radiator. When I tore into the dash for the heater core I found a mess of wiring (old trucks right!?!), some broken heater control parts and noticed the dash was half unbolted.

So I put in the new heater core, fixed and replaced all the bad and crummy wiring. Bolted the entire dash back up. I for got to mention this has a DIY4X cage in it. So the prior owner had cut holes in the original dash to fit the cage thru it. This leads me to why he must have left the dash half way unbolted. With everything done correctly the Guage cluster wouldn't fit inside the dash cause it was hitting part of the cage. So I cut into the Guage cluster, rewired it and was able to make it all fit and look mostly stock again.

As far as the front clip. It was pretty easy to cut up the radiator support and the grill. I did make a few pieces to hold everything together but I couldn't find the correct chevy Bowtie emblem to fit the grill. So we went with an Autobot emblem instead, haha. I'll try to post some pictures soon.
User avatar
By Coltron
#12567
Image

Image

The only way the cluster would fit is with the backside notched out. but that in turn left me without the volt meter and a dash light at this point.
Image

Image

So with the original wiring sheet out of the way. I ran in some new wires to the volt meter and drilled out a new spot for a dash light.
Image

Image

Made a bunch of little tabs and brackets to hold the grill back together and look factory-ish
Image

Image

Took some sheet metal and riveted it in to hold the sides together. Also there is 2 mounting points for the headlight bezels that I needed to hold it all together. I eventually painted it all black.
Image

Image

Image
User avatar
By axleater
#12573
the full size rigs never end up full size!
User avatar
By Coltron
#12576
Today was a little interesting. I started the day removing the rest of the carpet. Wanted to do the Polyurethane body mounts I had picked up for it. I ended up finding a hefty amount of cancer on the rear of the floor and pan. At first I thought I could maybe repair it but after cutting into it a little ways I decided to order the replacement parts from LMC truck. Also found out that if I had an unlimited budget I could pretty much buy an entirely new blazer from LMC, haha. They have everything for this ole hog. I was able to get the new body mounts on with new bolts but it didn't happen easily. Tools needed for today's "extra special" body mount bolts/plates removal- impact, grinder, air chisel, torch, pipe wrench, pry bars, pliers and the usual sockets/wrenches. Needless to say they were pretty rusted.

Image

Image

Those bolts were getting a little thin.
Image
User avatar
By Coltron
#12578
Outside of it flurrying snow off and on today, it wasn't to bad of a day. Sure wish my garage was about 5' taller with a 12' door. Since I'm waiting on parts to finish the rear cab. I decided to start on the rear suspension. Changed the rear to a DIY4X reverse shackle and got rid of the 6" lift-52" long springs for some new old stock 2" lift- 56" long springs that I bought from Jeepurz for a reasonable price.

The old springs are still in good shape but definitely need new bushings.

Image

I'm not sure how everyone else cuts off rivets but the easiest way I've found is to take a cutoff wheel and chop a cross into the rivet, take my awesome MAC air chisel and cut the heads off with a flat end and then pop them thru the frame with a pointed end. The whole process only takes me a couple minutes. 1-2 minutes to cut the crosses, 1 minute to chisel them off and pop them thru the frame. I've done it with a torch before but I'm really not a fan of a fiery hot rivet flying thru the air when I pop them thru the frame. :-D

Image

Image

Image

When you're working outside and don't own a car lift, this is the safest-Unsafe way to lift the rear end up high enough to take the rear suspension out, LOL

Image

DIY4X really makes this process easy. they made the hanger brackets offset so that all the guesswork is already done for you. If I wanted to stay with 52" springs I would've just had to flip the hanger around to the other side of the frame.

Image

The difference in length and lack of arch is gonna really help the ride I think.

Image

The Kit came with the bolts, nuts welded on plates for the inside of the frame, shackles and bushings.

Image

This also ended up stretching the rear axle back 1" to give the K5 a 107" Wheelbase. And basically re-centered the rear end with the fender well.

Image
long long title how many chars? lets see 123 ok more? yes 60

We have created lots of YouTube videos just so you can achieve [...]

Another post test yes yes yes or no, maybe ni? :-/

The best flat phpBB theme around. Period. Fine craftmanship and [...]

Do you need a super MOD? Well here it is. chew on this

All you need is right here. Content tag, SEO, listing, Pizza and spaghetti [...]

Lasagna on me this time ok? I got plenty of cash

this should be fantastic. but what about links,images, bbcodes etc etc? [...]