talk about general wheeling tech(i.e wheels, axles,tires also for tech articals )
By Rick
#12915
I am trying to get ideas on how to build my 02 TJ for the BlackHills. Its a 2.5 and 5 speed. What would be a good set up? I want to run 35s with a minimum of lift. Would a HP D30 and ford 8.8 last? With deep gears, 5.13s. Or step up to Grand Cherokee D44 low pinion axles? I plan to keep the 2.5 but want to put a inertia ring on and a different trans. It will be strictly a toy. Just paid it off.
Any opinions will be great.
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By Weasel
#12916
Can you put a AW4 in it? The auto that comes in most I6 Cherokees and Grand's? Gears I would go as low as you possibly can, 5.38 or better. I think the D30 would be fine but they only recently came out with 5.13's and it remains to be seen how strong they are. I plan on trying some in the front of mine. But I also have Synergy ball joints, RCV 30 spline front shafts and a Eaton Elocker. Seem to be holding up pretty well. Other then I should have trussed and gusset it years ago.
By Rick
#12917
I can swap a AW4 in but has to be from a 89 or 90 XJ that had a 2.5. Only hard part would be finding a flex plate and torque convertor. Would rather have a auto in it. Makes it easier to drive. I am also looking at a doubler with a NorthWest Fab Eco box to a flipped D300.
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By Weasel
#12918
At that point why not just go with an Atlas? The d300 seem prone to leaking when flipped.
By Rick
#12919
True on the atlas. But the initial cost is the Atlas killer. If I could score one at a decent price I would look at it a bit more.
By Lonny
#12922
I have the TNT long arm kit with 4.5" BDS springs on mine with 35s. With their high clearance belly skid, you'll need an 1.25" body lift as well. It has dual triangulated rear control arms so you can get rid of the rear track bar. Works really well. You could probably use 3.5" springs. Teraflex makes a good long arm kit as well. Stop by Z Fab and talk to Todd. He's very knowledgeable and reasonable on parts and labor if you need it.
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By axleater
#12923
you might not have enough room in your chassis for an automatic and a doubler with a dana 300. the rear drive shaft will be really short without a serous wheel base stretch. AW4 with a manual shifter and an atlas is worth saving your pennies for and putting in the first time. Flex plate and torque converter and bell housing are the hard part.

A pair of built toyota axles would be my first choice for your project. A built dana 30 like weasels would hold up well with 35's and would bolt in which is nice. Not a fan of the 8.8, would go Toyota or dana 44 before that.

Sounds like you have a fun project ahead of you! Keep us posted on the AW4 to 2.5 stuff
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By Weasel
#12929
black boxes run about 1-1.5K, D300 is another $500, if you upgrade anything on the D300 you are knocking on the door of an atlas. Yeah the up front cost is tough to swallow but it's just better in the end and really worth it.

Isuzu D44 works well for a rear axle, I have one that's going in my DD.
By Rick
#12932
May just save up and drop the coin for a Atlas. Also need to sort out the AW4 to 2.5 and get it done. Any thoughts on Waggy D44s with JK D44 ring and pinions? I have heard its a big step up in strength. I would like to do long arms and a wheel base stretch. But what kit? or custom? I can do engine and trans swaps but the suspension is a bit beyond my scope.
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By axleater
#12933
I would us a Ford high pinion front instead of a wagoneer, hard to find a centered up rear of a wagoneer as well. The isuzu or Honda passport Dana 44 rear is a good option though.

All your mounts will be custom anyway so custom will probably be the way to go.
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